Sur de Argentina: Is this REALLY Argentina (Tuesday December 28th--Day 49)

I used to make this same mistake in school. Before researching a subject, I would already know the answer I was looking for. My methodology was narrowed, my research was cloudy, and my results were slightly biased and somewhat predictable. This is natural and nearly impossible to overcome. But that doesn´t make it okay. And here, in Patagonia, I have found myself repeating the same error. I wanted to badly to find Argentina in the South. I wanted so badly to see something the others hadn´t. I wanted so badly to justify my trip south as I had justified my time spent in the North. Preconceptions aside, I had found that this question of authenticity is much more complicated than I had thought and the answer is far more layered than I expected.So after two weeks, three towns, fifty hours of buses, and a handful of coffeeshops...I have only more thoughts to further blur the discussion.
Basically, in order to decide if Southern Argentina is, in fact, still Argentina, it makes sense that we ought to first define our control variable. Argentina. This is impossible. If you ask a group of Americans to define the United States, you are going to receive a variety of answers. It´s a plot of conquered land. It´s a concept of freedom and democracy. It´s big cars and designer jeans. It´s football and cowboys. It´s individualism and work ethic. It´s the dream of change and personal growth. It´s imperialism at its best. So I, as one person, an outsider to this country, cannot possibly define Argentina. But all theories are solidly built upon somewhat arbitrary bases...so here it goes. Argentina: a name, a language, a space, a growing economy, a young educated population, a culture of family, a catholic stronghold, and a love of soccer. This definition, developed from my time spent on the north, my conversations with people, and my understanding of current events, is rather easy to support in the north. Here, in Patagonia, it´s a little harder. However, because I spent more days that necesary by typical tourist standards in each town, I have been able to slow down my movement, explore beyond the major attractions, and see into the real life that does exist here in Southern Argentina.
A name. The argentina government does a wonderful job putting its name on the projects it has completed. Rightfully so. It has done a great job. Public spaces. Parks. Construction sites. Public works. New schools. These signs were present in the North, and they are here in the south as well. ¨Here too a nation is growing.¨ ¨Santa Cruz municipality is working for you.¨ Ärgentina National Park Service.¨ And just as the Argentina flag flew high in each town and proudly from most windows, here too the banner waves (although it is often accompanied by the state flag as well, which I had not seen before Patagonia).
A language. This one is a bit harder, and a lot more frustrating for someone wanting to speak Spanish. If you spend all your time in the South in hostels and on excurions, you will rarely hear Spanish. Many foreigners don´t even bother attempting, because they just don´t have to. But you really don´t need to go far out of your way to hear and speak the language. Waiters, guides, receptionists, and strangers will be more than happy to speak Castellano rather than English. You just have to make the first move. True, I am not discussion the range of topics that I did in the North. However, Spanish is still prominent and will most likely remain so.
A big space. North. South. Center. This country is a continuation of one big open space (with the exception of B.A., of course, which is just big). The mountains and forests of Patagonia are different than the central Pampas and Northern deserts. But any big country is bound to include multiple types of landscapes and climates. Just look at the variety in the States. What unites Argentina´s countryside is the grandeur of the area and the vastness of the space.
A growing economy. Read the news. Talk to the ever-enlarging middle class. Overhear the complaints of tourists about how the prices have tripled in the last three years. While the rest of the world is crashing, Argentina is doing pretty well for itself. Towns are growing. Public works are well underway. And while certain parts are more finantially stable, both the North and South are feeling the impacts of this economic prosperity.
A young educated population. I noticed it a lot in Cordoba, Albardon, and the other towns I passed through. There are a lot of young people in Argentina. I imagine that the 5-25 age group dominates the population, which means that the future of Argentina will have to account for a lot more jobs and houses. The government knows this, which is why improving the education system is such an important and pervasive initiative. 1000 new schools within six years. A laptop for every child. National free wifi. To Argentina, an educated and hard working population is the key to a positive future. Patagonia definitely has a lot more middle aged individuals than I have seen elsewhere, but it is not lacking in youth. About half of the twenty-somethings with whom I spoke have left their homes in Patagonia to study elsewhere but then returned to this place that they love; the other half are from elsewhere but have come here to find work and live in the beautiful countryside, much like many of us east-coasters migrate west. Although I have no information on the few small towns in central Patagonia, I would assume (based on the previous attempts of government to modernize and civilize the gauchos) that they too have a decent education system. So this appears pretty standard accross the country.
A culture of family. I was fortunate enough to be in Patagonia during Christmas, so displays of family affection was public and prominent. True, holidays always exacerbate family ties. But in this case, I think the holidays simply brought these relationships to the forefront, rather than increase their intensity. I watched parents bring their children to see Santa at the local town hall. I saw family members visiting loved ones who had to work in restaurants and hotels on the 25th. I saw generations come together in homes to celebrate the holidays together. Family still holds strong.
A Catholic strong hold. While this was very apparent in the North, I haven´t noticed it as much here. Everything is open on Sundays and I don´t get asked on a weekly basis if I believe in Jesus. But we are in a tourist-heavy location, so that may just be a good business model. There still is a church in every town and nearly everyone wears a crucifix around their neck. So I´m sure religion still holds strong here. I could look harder, but we´ll let this one remain undetermined.
Love for soccer. Clubes de futbol are in everytown. Kids play on the streets. People gather in restaurants and homes to watch games. It´s here. It´s Argentina.
I think my point is that if you spend enough time in any place, you are bound to notice what´s really going on. It takes time and a somewhat conscious effort, but it is possible to see the human realness of this beautiful place. Patagonia may be a place for the world, but at its core Patagonia is in Argentina.